Series 55 - Section 13.4 Description of Maintenance Items - Detroit Diesel Engine Troubleshooting

Section 13.4
Description of Maintenance Items

For locations of components and systems to be maintained, see Figure "Preventive Maintenance Service Items" , and see Figure "Preventive Maintenance Service Items" .‪

Click to see this graphic in a separate window

1.Oil Filler Tube‪	6.Rocker Cover‪
2.Oil Filter‪	7.Turbocharger‪
3.Cranking Motor‪	8.Fan Hub‪
4.Engine Mounts‪	9.Water Pump‪
5.Exhaust Manifold‪	10.Drive Belts‪

Figure 1. Preventive Maintenance Service Items

1.Electronic Unit Pump‪	5.Thermostats and Seals‪
2.Oil Pan‪	6.Air Inlet‪
3.Fuel Filter‪	7.Crankcase Breather‪
4.Fuel Pump‪	8.Fuel Line‪

Figure 2. Preventive Maintenance Service Items

Section 13.4.1
Lubricating Oil

Check the lubricating oil level with the engine stopped and the vehicle on level ground. If the engine has just been stopped and is warm, wait approximately five minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan. Add the proper grade oil as required to maintain the correct level on the dipstick ( refer to "5.2 Lubricating Oil" ).‪

Note: Oil may be blown out through the crankcase breather if the crankcase is overfilled.

Make a visual check for oil leaks around the filters and the external oil lines.‪

Select the proper grade of oil. Refer to "5.2 Lubricating Oil" .‪

Note: If the lubricating oil is drained immediately after an engine has been run for some time, most of the sediment will be in suspension and will drain readily.

Change the lubricating oil as follows:‪

Position the vehicle or equipment on level ground.

If the engine is cold, run it until it is warm.

NOTICE:
When removing or installing a side plug, hold the flats of the insert with a 2 1/8 in., or larger, open end adjustable wrench to keep it from turning. If the insert is loosened, it may be necessary to remove the oil pan, and retighten the nut to prevent a possible oil leak.‪

Remove drain plug on the bottom of oil pan. Drain lube oil into a suitable container.
Dispose of used lubrication oil in an environmentally responsible manner, according to EPA and state recommendations.
Coat drain plug(s) with Loctite PT7271 sealant (or equivalent). Install and tighten to 45-56 N · m (33-41 lb · ft).

To replace the lube oil filters, perform the following procedure:‪

Remove the spin-on filter cartridges using strap wrench tool J 29927 (or equivalent) and a 1/2 in. drive socket wrench and extension.
Dispose of the used oil and filters in an environmentally responsible manner, according to EPA and state recommendations.
Clean the filter adaptor with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Lightly coat the filter gaskets (seals) with clean engine oil.
Start the new filters on the adaptor, and tighten by hand until the gaskets touch the mounting adaptor head. Tighten full flow filters an additional two-thirds turn by hand. Lightly coat the new oil filter seal with clean engine oil.
Add oil as required to bring the level to the "full" mark on the dipstick. 21.5 L (22.5 quarts) are required when the filters are not changed. With a filter change, add 26.5 L (28 quarts) (two-filter engines) or 39 L (41 quarts) (three-filter engines).‪

Start and run the engine for a short period, and check for leaks. After leaks have been corrected, stop the engine long enough for oil to drain back to the crankcase (approximately five minutes). Add oil as required to bring the level to the proper mark on the dipstick.‪

Section 13.4.2
Fuel Tanks

Keep the fuel tank filled to reduce the condensation to a minimum. Select the proper grade of fuel in accordance with the Fuel Specifications. Refer to "5.1 Fuel" .‪

Every 12 months or 60,000 miles - 96,000 km, whichever comes first, tighten all fuel tank mountings and brackets (refer to OEM maintenance guidelines). At the same time, check the seal in the fuel tank cap, the breather hole in the cap and the condition of the flexible fuel lines. Repair or replace the parts as necessary (refer to OEM maintenance guidelines).‪

The most common form of diesel fuel contamination is water. Water is harmful to the fuel system in itself, but it also promotes the growth of microbiological organizations (microbes). These microbes clog fuel filters with a "slime" and restrict fuel flow.‪

Condensation is particularly prevalent on units that stand idle for extended periods of time. Ambient temperature changes cause condensation in partially filled fuel tanks.‪

Units in storage are particularly susceptible to microbe growth. The microbes live in the fuel-water interface. They need both liquids to survive. These microbes find excellent growth conditions in the dark, quiet, non-turbulent nature of the fuel tank.‪

Where water contamination is a concern, the fuel system should be equipped with a fuel/water separator which should be serviced regularly. In environments where microbe growth is a problem, a fungicide such as Biobor JF (or equivalent) may be used. Microbial activity may be confirmed with commercially available test kits. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for treatment. Avoid the use of fungicides containing halogenated compounds, since these may cause fuel system corrosion.‪

When small amounts of water are present, supplemental additives containing methyl carbitol or butyl cellusolve are effective. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for their use. The use of isopropyl alcohol is no longer recommended due to its negative effect on fuel lubricity.‪

Section 13.4.3
Fuel Lines and Flexible Hoses

Make a visual check for fuel leaks at all engine-mounted fuel lines and connections, and at the fuel tank suction and return lines. Since fuel tanks are susceptible to road hazards, leaks in this area may best be detected by checking for accumulation of fuel under the tanks.‪

The performance of engine and auxiliary equipment is greatly dependent on the ability of flexible hoses to transfer lubricating oil, air, coolant and fuel oil. Diligent maintenance of hoses is an important step in ensuring efficient, economical and safe operation of the engine and related equipment.‪

Check hoses daily as part of the pre-start up inspection. Examine hoses for leaks and check all fittings, clamps and ties carefully. Be sure that hoses are not resting on or touching shafts, couplings, heated surfaces, including exhaust manifolds, any sharp edges or other obviously hazardous areas. Since all machinery vibrates and moves to a certain extent, clamps and ties can fatigue with age. To ensure continued proper support, inspect fasteners frequently and tighten or replace them, as necessary (refer to OEM maintenance guidelines).‪

Investigate leaks immediately to determine if hoses have ruptured or worn through. Take corrective action immediately. Leaks are not only potentially detrimental to machine operation, but they also result in added expense caused by the need to replace lost fluids.‪


To avoid injury from fire, contain and eliminate leaks of flammable fluids as they occur. Failure to eliminate leaks could result in fire.‪

A hose has a finite service life. The service life of a hose is determined by the temperature and pressure of the air or fluid within it, its time in service, its mounting, the ambient temperatures and amount of flexing and vibration to which it is subjected. With this in mind, all hoses should be thoroughly inspected annually. Look for cover damage or indications of damaged, twisted, worn, crimped, brittle, cracked or leaking lines. Hoses having the outer cover worn through or damaged metal reinforcement should be considered unfit for further service.‪

All hoses in or out of machinery should be replaced during major overhaul or after a maximum of five years service.‪

Section 13.4.4
Cooling System

Check the coolant level daily. Be sure it is within 50 mm (2 in.) of the filler neck or vehicle manufacturer's recommendation. Add coolant, as necessary. Do not overfill .‪

Make a visual check for cooling system leaks. Check for an accumulation of coolant beneath the vehicle during periods when the engine is running and when the engine is stopped.‪

Note: In order to ensure the integrity of the cooling system, it is recommended that a periodic cooling system pressure check be performed. Pressurize the cooling system 103-138 kPa (15-20 lb/in.² ) using radiator cap and cooling system Tester, J 24460-01 Do not exceed 138 kPa (20 lb/in.² ). Any measurable drop in pressure may indicate an external/internal leak. Whenever the oil pan is removed, the cooling system should be pressure checked as a means of identifying any internal coolant system leaks.

Clean the cooling system every 24 months using a good radiator cleaning compound in accordance with the instructions on the container. After the cleaning operation, rinse the cooling system thoroughly with fresh water. Then fill the system with the proper anti-freeze/water mixture and pre-charge of inhibitors. When a thorough cleaning of the cooling system is required, it should be reverse flushed.‪

Inspect all of the cooling system hoses at least once every 30,000 miles - 48,000 km (300 hours for industrial applications) to be sure the clamps are tight and properly seated on the hoses and to check for signs of deterioration. Replace the hoses, if necessary. Refer to OEM maintenance guidelines.‪

Drain the engine coolant as follows:‪

Allow engine to cool.


To avoid injury from the expulsion of hot coolant, never remove the cooling system pressure cap while the engine is at operating temperature. Remove the cap slowly to relieve pressure. Wear adequate protective clothing (face shield or safety goggles, rubber gloves, apron, and boots).‪

Remove drain plugs at washer pump housing and bottom of oil cooler housing.
Remove radiator pressure cap.
Open valve at bottom of radiator.
Collect used antifreeze in a suitable container, and dispose of the solution in an environmentally responsible manner, according to state and federal (EPA) recommendations.
Replace all drain plugs, and close any drain valves.
Refill the system with proper antifreeze, refer to "5.3 Coolant" and clean soft water mixture.
Purge entrapped air by allowing the engine to warm-up without the pressure cap installed. With the transmission in neutral, increase engine speed above 1000 r/min. Add coolant as required.
Allow engine to cool.
Install the pressure cap after filling the coolant level to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.

If the cooling system is contaminated, flush the cooling system as follows:‪

Drain the coolant from the engine.

NOTICE:

If the engine is hot, fill slowly to prevent rapid cooling and distortion of the engine castings.‪
Refill with soft clean water.
Start the engine and operate it for 15 minutes after the thermostats have opened to thoroughly circulate the water.
Drain the unit completely.
Refill with clean water and operate for 15 minutes after the thermostats have opened.
Drain the unit completely.
Fill with 50/50 antifreeze water and precharge of inhibitor.
Purge entrapped air by allowing the engine to warm-up without the pressure cap installed. With the transmission in neutral, increase engine speed above 1000 r/min. Add coolant as required.
Allow engine to cool.
Install the pressure cap after filling the coolant level to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.

NOTICE:
If the engine is hot, fill slowly to prevent rapid cooling and distortion of the engine castings.‪

Section 13.4.4.1
Test Procedure for DDEC Engines Equipped with Low Coolant Level Sensor (CLS)

Test procedure for engine cooling systems that are equipped with a low coolant sensor mounted in the top tank of the radiator. This sensor must be tested annually or every 100,000 miles (160,000 km), whichever comes first, using the procedure as follows: ‪


To avoid injury from the expulsion of hot coolant, never remove the cooling system pressure cap while the engine is at operating temperature. Remove the cap slowly to relieve pressure. Wear adequate protective clothing (face shield or safety goggles, rubber gloves, apron, and boots).‪

Allow the engine to cool to ambient temperature.
Turn ignition switch on and verify no coolant level sensor codes. (DO NOT START ENGINE.)
Reduce coolant level below CLS level.
Check "stop engine light". It should illuminate within 10 seconds, indicating low coolant level.
1. If light illuminates, system is working properly.
2. If light does not illuminate, refer to "13.4.4.2 Stop Engine Light did not Illuminate " .
Fill coolant to proper level. Refer to "13.4.4 Cooling System" .

Section 13.4.4.2
Stop Engine Light did not Illuminate

If stop engine light did not illuminate, use the following procedure: ‪

Check wiring harness and mating connector for damaged wires or pins.
Remove and clean sensor. Wash with mild detergent and rinse with clean water.
Submerge sensor in container of water up to connector with wiring harness connected.
Turn ignition switch on. (DO NOT START ENGINE.)
Slowly remove sensor from water.
The light should illuminate, indicating low coolant level.
If light does illuminate, system is working properly.
If light still does not illuminate, replace sensor and return it to DDC.

Section 13.4.5
Turbocharger

Inspect the mountings, intake and exhaust ducting and connections for leaks. Check the oil inlet and outlet lines for leaks and/or restrictions to oil flow. Check for unusual noise or vibration, refer to "6.4.2.1 Inspection of Turbocharger" and, if excessive, remove the turbocharger and correct the cause. ‪

Section 13.4.6
Battery

On batteries equipped with charge indicator eyes, periodically check for adequate charge. If batteries are the filler cap type, check the level of the electrolyte every 100 hours or every 7,500 miles (12,000 km). In warm weather, however, it should be checked more frequently due to a more rapid loss of water from the electrolyte. Electrolyte should be maintained in accordance with the battery manufacturer's recommendations. Periodically remove, check and clean battery post terminals and connections. Replace corroded or damaged parts. Refer to "8.3.2 Cleaning and Removal of Storage Battery" .‪

Section 13.4.7
Drive Belts

New standard Vee-belts will stretch after the first few hours of operation. Run the engine for 10 to 15 minutes at 1200 r/min to seat the belts, then readjust the tension. Check the belts and tighten the fan drive, battery-charging generator or alternator and other accessory drive belts after 1/2 hour or 15 miles and again after 8 hours or 250 miles (402 km) of operation. Thereafter, check the tension of the drive belts every 100 hours or 7,500 miles (12,000 km) and adjust, if necessary. Belts should be neither too tight nor too loose. Belts that are too tight impose excess loads on the crankshaft, fan and/or alternator bearings, shortening both belt and bearing life. Excessively overtightened belts can result in crankshaft breakage. A loose belt will slip and may cause damage to accessory components.‪

Replace ALL belts in a set when one is worn . Single belts of similar size should not be used as a substitute for a matched belt set: premature belt wear can result because of belt length variation. All belts in a matched belt set are within 0.81 mm (.032 in.) of their specified center distances‪

With a Belt Tension Gage, J 41251 , or equivalent, adjust the belt tension as listed in Table "Table Belt Tensions" .‪

Fan Drive Single Belt ‪	Fan Drive 2 or 3 Belts ‪	New Alternator Belts 2 1/2 in. ‪	Used Alternator Belts 2 1/2 in. ‪
80-100 lb (355 - 455 N)‪	60-80 lb (266 - 355 N)‪	125 lb (556 N)‪	100 lb (445 N)‪

Table 8. Table Belt Tensions

If a belt tension gage is not available, adjust the belt tension so that a firm push with the thumb, at a point midway between the two pulleys, will depress the belt 12.70-19.05 mm (.500 -.750 in.).‪

Note: When installing or adjusting an accessory drive belt, be sure the bolt at the accessory adjusting pivot point is properly tightened, as well as the bolt in the adjusting slot.

Note: Drive belts (vee and poly-vee) should be replaced every 2,000 hours or 100,000 miles (160,000 km).

Poly-vee belts are used with the 50 DN Alternator. The 50 DN alternator drive belt tension is set at 1335 N (300 lb) during engine assembly and belt replacement. A new belt loses tension rapidly during the first few minutes of operation. Therefore, it is important to check the tension after 10 minutes of operation. Allow the belt to cool with the engine off for 10 to 15 minutes before measuring tension.‪

If the tension on the belt is greater than or equal to 890 N (200 lb), no retensioning is required.
If the tension on the belt is less than 200 pounds, retension the belt to 890 N (200 lb).

Periodic retensioning on the belt is required to maximize belt life. The belt tension should be measured once per month or every 10,000 miles (16,000 km) , whichever comes first.‪

A belt tensioning tool is available from Detroit Diesel; J 39966 . The gage is calibrated from 779 to 1558 N (175 to 350 lb). The following procedure will describe proper use of the belt tensioning tool:‪

Poly-vee belts are very sensitive to undertension. Without a gage and proper tension measurement, the belt tension will probable be too low. Undertension wears belts rapidly and will lead to premature belt failure.

NOTICE:

Do not let gage handle snap back after pressing handle when not installed on belt under tension. Broken gear will result.‪
Fully press the plunger on the belt gage. The belt must pass between the hook and the leg pads. The entire belt width must be supported by the hook and leg pads.
Use quick release on the gage handle. Read tension on the face of the gage. Repeat the measurement 2 or 3 times to ensure accuracy.
The support legs on the gage should not contact pulleys or any other engine hardware.
Keep gage clean. Dirt will wear out the leg pads.

NOTICE:
Do not let gage handle snap back after pressing handle when not installed on belt under tension. Broken gear will result.‪

Section 13.4.7.1
Inspect for Rib Cracking

As a poly-vee belt goes through its natural life, it passes through several phases:‪

After an extended time in service, minor rib cracks may appear, usually one or two cracks per inch of belt. See Figure "Minor Rib Cracking" . This condition is considered normal.

Figure 3. Minor Rib Cracking
A replacement concern occurs when the belt ribs exhibit severe multiple cracking ( see Figure "Severe Rib Cracking" ). This leads to "chunking" (breaking away of rib material). See Figure "Rib Chunking" .

Figure 4. Severe Rib Cracking

Figure 5. Rib Chunking
When severe cracking or rib "chunking" appears, belt replacement is required.

Section 13.4.7.2
Inspect for Rib Sidewall Glazing

When the ribs appear to have a shiny surface that is hard and brittle, it is usually a symptom of belt slippage. This results from inadequate tension, extreme temperature, or both. Both characteristics will lead to severe cracking and failure, often with little advance warning. If this happens, locate the cause and correct before installing a new belt.‪

Section 13.4.7.3
Inspect for Belt Wear

Accelerated wear on any part of the belt fabric backing, tensile cord, or rib rubber is a concern and should be investigated. The causes of accelerated wear are:‪

Drive misalignment - For efficient belt performance, misalignment must not exceed 1.59 mm (1/16 in.) for each 305 mm (12.0 in.) of belt span
Incorrect belt length
Environmental conditions - Temperature, excessive exposure to engine fluids, etc.
Abrasive material - Stones, sand, metal shavings, etc.

Section 13.4.7.4
Inspect for Foreign Objects

Premature failure may be caused by the belt coming in contact with a foreign object.‪

NOTICE:
Any object protruding into the path of the belt drive that contacts the belt will cause damage and failure of the belt.‪

Prior to installing a new belt, verify removal of any foreign objects protruding into the belt path.‪

Section 13.4.7.5
Inspect for Noise Vibration

Much effort has gone into the design of each poly-vee belt drive in order to prevent noise vibration. However, field problems occasionally occur. Some causes of noise vibration are:‪

Misalignment - This may cause a chirping noise, especially at or near idle speed
Mounting - Rigid bracketing of accessories is a must for acceptable free belt span vibration
Note: Some span vibration is to be expected during the range of engine speed and accessory loading.
Belt tension - Insufficient belt tension may cause a high-pitched howl (squeal) or rasping sound during engine acceleration or deceleration

Section 13.4.8
Air Compressor

Remove and clean all air compressor air intake parts every 150 hours or 15,000 miles (24,000 km) refer to "10.1.2 Cleaning and Removal of Air Compressor" . To clean either the hair-type or polyurethane-type compressor air strainer element, saturate and squeeze it in fuel oil, or any other cleaning agent that would not be detrimental to the element, until it is dirt-free. Then, dip the element in lubricating oil and squeeze it dry before placing it back in the air strainer.‪

For replacement of the air strainer element, contact the nearest servicing dealer; replace with the polyurethane element, if available.‪

Every 12 months or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), tighten the air compressor mounting bolts.‪

Section 13.4.9
Air Cleaner

Inspect the air cleaner element every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) for vehicle engines, or more often if the engine is operated under severe dust conditions. Replace the element if necessary. Check the gaskets for deterioration and replace, if necessary. If the dry type air cleaner is equipped with an aspirator, check for aspirator damage or clogging. Clean and repair as necessary.‪

Under no engine operating conditions should the air inlet restriction exceed 5.0 kPa (20 inches) of water. A clogged air cleaner element will cause excessive intake restriction and a reduced air supply to the engine.‪

Dry-type air cleaner elements used in on-highway applications should be discarded and replaced with new elements when the maximum allowable air inlet restriction has been reached. No attempt should be made to clean or reuse on-highway elements after these intervals.‪

Dry-type elements used in industrial applications should be discarded and replaced with new elements after one year of service or when the maximum allowable air intake restriction has been reached, whichever comes first. In cases where the air cleaner manufacturer recommends cleaning or washing elements, the maximum service life is still one year or maximum restriction. Cleaning, washing and inspection must be done per the manufacturer's recommendations, if any. Inspection and replacement of the cover gaskets must also be done per the manufacturer's recommendations, if any.‪

NOTICE:
Reusing a damaged air cleaner element or gasket may result in inadequate air filtration and severe engine damage.‪

Section 13.4.10
Lubricating Oil Filter

Install a new full flow spin-on oil filter at a maximum of 15,000 miles (24,000 km) (truck engines) 6,000 miles (10,000 km) (coach engines) or each time the engine oil is changed, whichever comes first. Install the new filters, turning them until they contact the gasket fully with no side movement, then turn an additional 2/3 turn by hand.‪

Make a visual inspection of all lubricating oil lines for wear and/or chafing. If any indication of wear is evident, replace the oil lines and correct the cause.‪

If the engine has not been operated for a prolonged period or the turbocharger has been removed or replaced, prelubricate the turbocharger as outlined under "Installation of Turbocharger." refer to "6.4.3 Installation of Turbocharger" .‪

Check for oil leaks after starting the engine.‪

Section 13.4.11
Fuel Filters

Install new fuel filters every six months or 15,000 miles (24,000 km) (truck engines) 6,000 miles (10,000 km) (coach engines) or when plugging is indicated. ‪

A method of determining when filters are plugged to the extent that they should be changed is based on the fuel pressure at the cylinder block fuel inlet fitting. In a clean system, the maximum pump inlet restriction should not exceed 20.3 kPa (6 in. Hg) and must not exceed 41 kPa (12 in. Hg) with a dirty system.‪

At normal operating speeds and with the standard 4.0 bar pressure regulator, the fuel pressure at the cylinder block inlet is 380-475 kPa (55-69 lb/in.² ). Change the fuel filters whenever the inlet restriction at the fuel pump reaches 41 kPa (12 in. Hg) at normal operating speeds and whenever the fuel pressure falls to the minimum fuel pressure shown above.‪

Spin-on type primary and secondary fuel filters are used on. The spin-on type consists of a shell, element, and gasket unitized into the single cartridge and a filter cover, which includes a threaded sleeve to accept the spin-on filter cartridge. An optional fuel/water separator may be installed in place of the standard primary filter.‪

Replace spin-on type primary or secondary filter elements as follows:‪

With the engine shut down, place a suitable container under the filter.
A fuel shutoff valve may be installed on the discharge side of the secondary fuel filter. If installed, turn the handle on the shutoff valve to the closed position (perpendicular to the valve).
Using a suitable band type filter wrench, remove the primary and secondary fuel filters. Dispose of the filters in an environmentally responsible manner, according to state and federal (EPA) recommendations.
Fill new replacement filters with clean fuel oil, and coat the gaskets lightly with clean fuel oil.

NOTICE:

Overtightening may crack or distort the adaptors.‪
Thread the new filters onto the adaptors until they make full contact with the gasket and no side movement is evident. Then rotate an additional one-half turn by hand .
Turn the handle on the shutoff valve (if installed) to the open position (in line with the valve).
Note: To improve engine starting, have replacement filters filled with fuel and ready to install immediately after used filters are removed. This will prevent possible siphoning and fuel system aeration.

NOTICE:
Overtightening may crack or distort the adaptors.‪

Start the engine, and check for leaks.

NOTICE:
Under no circumstances should the starting motor and fuel pump be used to prime the fuel filters. Prolonged use of the starting motor and fuel pump to prime the fuel system can result in damage to the starter and fuel pump, and cause erratic running of the engine because of air in the lines and filters.‪

If the engine fails to start after filter replacement, the fuel system will require priming with tool J 5956 (or equivalent). Authorized Detroit Diesel service outlets are properly equipped to perform this service.‪

Replace fuel/water separator as follows:‪

Drain off some fuel by opening the drain valve.
Using a strap wrench, remove the element and bowl together. Remove the bowl from the element. The filter and bowl have standard right-hand threads, so turn counterclockwise to remove.
Clean the bowl and the O-ring seal.

NOTICE:

To avoid damaging the bowl or the filter, do not use tools when tightening.‪
Apply a light coating of clean fuel or grease to the O-ring seal, spin the bowl onto the new filter, and tighten by hand .
Apply a light coating of clean fuel or grease to the new O-ring seal on the top of the filter. Spin the filter and bowl assembly onto the filter head, and tighten by hand until snug.
To eliminate air from the filter, operate the primer pump on the filter head (if equipped) until the fuel purges at the filter assembly.
Start the engine, and check for leaks. Correct any leaks with the engine off.

NOTICE:
To avoid damaging the bowl or the filter, do not use tools when tightening.‪

Section 13.4.12
Coolant Filter and Water Pump

If coolant does not leak from the drain hole under normal operating conditions, do not replace the water pump. If the cooling system is protected by a coolant filter and conditioner, the element should be changed every 15,000 miles (24,000 km). Use the proper coolant filter element in accordance with instructions given under coolant specifications. Refer to "5.3 Coolant" .‪